Learn and practice the craft of climbing alpine Ice!
This is an Intermediate level course geared toward climbers with some climbing experience looking to hone their skills on alpine Ice.
With a focus on tricks and tips to help you move efficiently in alpine terrain, this course will be one you will not forget!
Our expert certified guides are able teach you the advanced skills required to move safely in dynamic alpine terrain.
The Columbia Icefields is an exceptional venue for this course as it gives great access to training venues close to the road.
This is a 4 day intensive course that will push your limits as a climber.
Not ready for this course yet? Check out our Bugaboo Rock, Lake Louise Alpine, or Columbia Icefield snow and ice trips. We add educational components to all of our trips!
Itinerary:
Day 1:
We will meet up at 0930 am at the Columbia Icefields campground. We will then issue gear for the course and head out to a closeby venue such as the Athabasca Glacier. We will review crampon technique, ice axe use, ice screw placement, crevasse rescue and work on our steep ice technique. You may want to "pre-position" in the icefields the night before the course.
Day 2-3:
We will climb glacier ice! These days are all about getting comfortable with multi-pitch systems, placing protection screws, building anchors, belaying, lead climbing and route finding on alpine ice.
Day 4:
This will be a climbing day where we will put all the skills into practice on an alpine ascent involving student leads on ice, snow and complex glaciated terrain. We will pack up our camp in the morning and head back to town after the completion of the course. Expect this to be a long day.
Course Outline
Allpine ice and galcier Hazard Recognition and risk management
Proper fitting and selection of climbing equipment
Essential knots for ice climbing
Review of top rope and lead climbing techniques
Belaying a lead climber.
Belay considerations for multi-pich climbs
Direct anchor belay techniques for multi-pitch climbs
Climbing communication calls
Rope management on multi-pitch climbs
Anchor systems and direction of pull on multi-pitch anchors
Understanding fall factor
Making safe transitions at the anchor while multi-pitch climbing
Techniques to stay safe while approaching or transitioning from the cliff edge
Safe Rappelling techniques for multi-pitch climbs
Safe retreating techniques for the leader
Simulated leads to practice lead climbing systems
Movement skills training and development.
Introduction to rescue systems for multi-pitch climbers
Ice screw protection placement, cleaning and anchor construction.
use of ice axe and technical tools
self-arrest on snow
glacier morphology
Advanced glacier travel tecnniques
crevasse rescue techniques
Rappel anchors
Rappel techniques
Transportation
It is reccomened to drive yourself to the Columbia Icefields. We can also provide transport for up to 4 guests from Invermere if you'd prefer.
Accommodation
We will utilize a "light mountaineering base camp" at the Columbia Icefield campsite (tent) or the Wilcox Creek (RV) for most trips at the Columbia Icefield.
If desired and available there are hostel and hotel accommodations available as well in the area.
Meals
Meals are Light weight backpacking style meals. Breakfast, Lunch and Dinner are provided during the trip.
Please let us know if you have any allergies or dietary restrictions prior to the start of the trip.
Equipment List
Personal Gear
Boots – 3 Season Mountaineering boots. Waterproof and crampon compatible. NSM can provide boots if required. (Included - limited availability so let us know well ahead of time your shoe size!)
Sleeping bag – good to approx. -5 or -10 degrees Celsius. (NSM can rent you this if you need it- Additional fee $10/day.)
Sleeping pad – Therm-a-rest style or closed-cell foam. (NSM can provide this if you need - Included)
Summit-pack – 30-40 litre capacity (NSM can provide this if you need - Included)
Outer layer jacket with hood – Gore-Tex style
Lightweight outer layer waterproof pants – Gore-Tex style
Lightweight thermal layers – top & bottom, Polypro, Icebreaker, etc.
Climbing/hiking pants – nylon, fleece, Schoeller, etc. (1 pair)
Gloves (medium weight) – wool or poly-pro (2 pair)
Waterproof gloves or mitts (gloves work best) (2 pairs)
Warm parka/jacket – down, synthetic, fleece or pile (1)
Sweater or vest – wool, synthetic, fleece or down (1)
Socks – wool or synthetic blend (2-3 pairs)
Toque/warm hat – wool or fleece (1)
Sunglasses – UV block with good eye coverage (1pr)
Ski goggles
Headlamp with new batteries
Personal 1st aid (blister kit, toothbrush, blister kit, toilet paper, etc.)
Misc. personal items (camera, journal, etc.)
Sunscreen – minimum spf45
Water bottles/hydration system – minimum 1 litres
Walking pole(s) – Optional but helpful for the approach/descent
Gaiters (1 pair) – Optional if built-in paint gaiters or boot gaiters
Communal equipment (supplied by NSM):
Lightweight 2 to 4 person tents
Group tent / cooking shelter
cooking stove and fuel
Cooking sets
Personal eating utensils – cup, bowl, spoon
Compass and map
GPS
Rope, rock, snow and ice protection
Emergency shelter
First aid kit
Satellite communication device
VHF radio
Technical equipment (supplied by NSM if required)
Ice axe and technical climbing tool
Climbing harness – seat harness only
Helmet
3 locking carabineers
1x120cm sewn sling
1 x belay/rappel device
Crampons – General Mountaineering style adjusted to your boots (1 pair)
Avalanche transceiver, shovel and probe
Season and availability:
Mid July to September
Price (Not including 5% GST):
$1350.00 per Guest