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The North Face of Mt. Fay offers an excellent alpine snow and ice ascent.
The technical multi-pitch ascent to the Neil Colgan hut is Half of the fun!
The ascent of this peak involves technical multi-pitch ice and snow climbing.
Itinerary:
Day 1:
We will meet up early in the morning at Morraine Lake in Banff National park. We will then traverse Morraine lake and make the technical Perren route ascent to the Neil Colgan Hut where we will spend the night.
Day 2:
We will get up very early and climb one of the routes on the steep ice and snow routes on the North Face of Mt. Fay. After gaining the summit we will return to the hut for another nights rest.
Day 3:
We will make an ascent of Mt. Little or Mt. Bowlen before packing up our things and making the descent Rappells and downclimbing the Perren route back to Morraine Lake.
Logistics:
The maximum guest to guide ratio is 2:1
Transportation
Any vehicle will suffice. NSM can provide transport for up to 4 guests from Invermere.
Accommodation
We will utilize the Alpine Club of Canada's Neil Colgan Hut for this trip. Subject to availability.
Meals
Meals are Light weight backpacking style meals. Breakfast, Lunch and Dinner are provided during the trip.
Please let us know if you have any allergies or dietary restrictions prior to the start of the trip.
Equipment List
Personal Gear
Boots – 3 Season Mountaineering boots. Waterproof and crampon compatible. NSM can provide boots if required. (Included - limited availability so let us know well ahead of time your shoe size!)
Sleeping bag – good to approx. 0 to -5 degrees Celsius. ( NSM can rent you this if you need it- Additional fee $10/day.)
Large Backpack – 40-50 litre capacity (NSM can provide this if you need - Included)
Summit-pack – 20-40 litre capacity (optional, NSM can provide this if you need - Included)
Outer layer jacket with hood – Gore-Tex style
Lightweight outer layer waterproof pants – Gore-Tex style
Lightweight thermal layers – top & bottom, Polypro, Icebreaker, etc.
Climbing/hiking pants – nylon, fleece, Schoeller, etc. (1 pair)
Gloves (medium weight) – wool or poly-pro (2 pair)
Waterproof gloves or mitts (gloves work best) (2 pairs)
Warm parka/jacket – down, synthetic, fleece or pile (1)
Sweater or vest – wool, synthetic, fleece or down (1)
Socks – wool or synthetic blend (2-3 pairs)
Toque/warm hat – wool or fleece (1)
Sunglasses – UV block with good eye coverage (1pr)
Ski goggles (optional)
Headlamp with new batteries
Personal 1st aid (blister kit, toothbrush, blister kit, toilet paper, etc.)
Misc. personal items (camera, journal, etc.)
Sunscreen – minimum spf45
Water bottles/hydration system – minimum 1 litres
Walking pole(s) – Optional but helpful for the approach/descent
Gaiters (1 pair) – Optional if built-in paint gaiters or boot gaiters
Communal equipment (supplied by NSM):
Compass and map
GPS
Rope, rock, snow and ice protection
Emergency shelter
First aid kit
Satellite communication device
VHF radio
Technical equipment (supplied by NSM if required)
Ice axe and technical climbing tool
Climbing harness – seat harness only
Helmet
3 locking carabineers
1x120cm sewn sling
1 x belay/rappel device
Crampons – General Mountaineering style adjusted to your boots (1 pair)
Season and availability:
June: Early season conditions. Depending on the year there can be a lot of snow on the ground.
July and August: Main season. Most routes will be in condition.
September: Fall conditions.
Price estimate (Not including 5% GST):
1 Guest $2400.00
2 Guests $2700.00
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