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The North Face of Stanley peak offers an excellent alpine snow and ice ascent.
The ascent of this peak involves technical multi-pitch ice and snow climbing and advanced glacier travel.
1 day and 2 day ascents are available.
Itinerary: (1 day ascent.)
Day 1:
We will meet up VERY early in the morning (2am is common) in Invermere and make any final adjustments to our gear. We will then drive in to the parking area .It is about 1.5 hours from Invermere to the trailhead.
The approach hike takes us through beautiful wildflowers and epic views. Once off the established trail we will rope up and continue up the glacier . crossing a complex and crevassed glacier on approach to the North Face. We will then continue up our chosen route climbing ice and steep snow the gain the 10351ft/ 3155m elevation summit.
The one day option is recommended only for very fit climbers as it is a long day round trip.
2 day ascent interary:
For the two day ascent option we will meet up on day 1 at 9am and then complete the approach hike on the Popular Stanley Glacier trail before settling in to a bivy for the night at the head of the valley. we will then get a good nights sleep before waking up VERY early to complete the ascent of the North Face and then return to the cars.
This two day option is recommended for most climbers.
Logistics:
The maximum guest to guide ratio is 2:1
Transportation
Any vehicle will suffice. NSM can provide transport for up to 4 guests.
Accommodation
We will utilize a "light mountaineering bivi camp" for the 2 day option .
Meals
Meals are Light weight backpacking style meals. Breakfast, Lunch and Dinner are provided during the trip.
Please let us know if you have any allergies or dietary restrictions prior to the start of the trip.
Equipment List
Personal Gear
Boots – 3 Season Mountaineering boots. Waterproof and crampon compatible. NSM can provide boots if required. (Included - limited availability so let us know well ahead of time your shoe size!)
Sleeping bag – good to approx. -5 or -10 degrees Celsius. (2 day option NSM can rent you this if you need it- Additional fee $10/day.)
Sleeping pad – Therm-a-rest style or closed-cell foam. (2 day option NSM can provide this if you need - Included)
Large Backpack – 40-50 litre capacity ( 2 day option. NSM can provide this if you need - Included)
Summit-pack – 20-40 litre capacity (1 day option NSM can provide this if you need - Included)
Outer layer jacket with hood – Gore-Tex style
Lightweight outer layer waterproof pants – Gore-Tex style
Lightweight thermal layers – top & bottom, Polypro, Icebreaker, etc.
Climbing/hiking pants – nylon, fleece, Schoeller, etc. (1 pair)
Gloves (medium weight) – wool or poly-pro (2 pair)
Waterproof gloves or mitts (gloves work best) (2 pairs)
Warm parka/jacket – down, synthetic, fleece or pile (1)
Sweater or vest – wool, synthetic, fleece or down (1)
Socks – wool or synthetic blend (2-3 pairs)
Toque/warm hat – wool or fleece (1)
Sunglasses – UV block with good eye coverage (1pr)
Ski goggles (optional)
Headlamp with new batteries
Personal 1st aid (blister kit, toothbrush, blister kit, toilet paper, etc.)
Misc. personal items (camera, journal, etc.)
Sunscreen – minimum spf45
Water bottles/hydration system – minimum 1 litres
Walking pole(s) – Optional but helpful for the approach/descent
Gaiters (1 pair) – Optional if built-in paint gaiters or boot gaiters
Communal equipment (supplied by NSM):
Lightweight 2 or 3 person tent
Group tent / cooking shelter
stove and fuel
Cooking sets (2 pots per 3 people)
Personal eating utensils – cup, bowl, spoon
Compass and map
GPS
Rope, rock, snow or ice protection
Emergency shelter
First aid kit
Satellite communication device
VHF radio
Technical equipment (supplied by NSM if required)
Ice axe and technical climbing tool
Climbing harness – seat harness only
Helmet
3 locking carabineers
1x120cm sewn sling
1 x belay/rappel device
Crampons – General Mountaineering style adjusted to your boots (1 pair)
Season and availability:
April-May: Ski mountaineering only, weather and conditions dependent.
June: Early season conditions. Depending on the year there can be a lot of snow on the ground.
July and August: Main season. Most routes will be in condition.
September: Fall conditions.
Price estimate (Not including 5% GST):
1 day, 1 guest: From $700.00
1 day, 2 guests: From $725.00
2 day 1 guest: From $1500.00
2 day 2 guests: From $1700.00
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